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RistoNot enough money in the family coffers for that new '97? Then take a long, hard look at a used boat. Then take a closer look at its engine.
Perhaps the most expensive repair you can make to a used boat is on a major engine or outdrive failure. For this reason, it is imperative to thoroughly examine the powertrain. If you don't feel qualified to make the mechanical inspection, enlist the help of a mechanic friend or the services of a qualified marine mechanic. Here's a short list of what to look for:
* If the current owner has maintenance records on the boat, it's a good sign. Find out who did the service on the boat. Was it a shop or a qualified mechanic? Was the boat properly winterized? If so, where was it stored, inside or outside?
* With the engine cover off, check the general condition of the engine and bilge. It should be clean and orderly. It will be very apparent if an engine has been neglected.
* Engine time is an important consideration, but don't be fooled by the hour meter. A low-hour engine that has been abused and improperly maintained can be in worse condition than a high-time motor that has a healthy dose of TLC. The quickest way to judge what kind of shape the engine is in internally is to run a compression check. The cylinders should all be within a few psi of factory specs. One low cylinder is a sign that a major overhaul may be due.
* Pull a spark plug (during the compression check) and inspect it. Four-stroke engines should burn light brown or gray when in proper tune. If the plug is oily or fouled, oil is getting past the rings or valve seats. Heavy carbon build-up is a sign of neglect. On two-stroke outboard engines, the burn pattern on the plug should be clean. Oil on the plug is not uncommon, but heavy oil or carbon deposits are a sign that the fuel/oil ratio is too rich and the top half of the engine may need to be decarbonated.
* Check all engine fluids. The crankcase oil should be clean.
* Inspect the dipstick for signs of fuel or water in the oil. Water and oil don't mix, and the water will show up in the form of beads or droplets on the stick. If the engine has a separate cooling system, check the coolant for traces of oil, fuel or corrosion.
* Lastly, don't ever purchase a boat without at least listening to it run. A water test is the best way to evaluate the engine, but if that's not possible, have the engine fired and listen to it run. On four-stroke engines, check for signs of exhaust smoke. Blue smoke means oil is being burned; black smoke means there is carbon buildup; white smoke more than likely means water or coolant is being vaporized. Expect a bit of condensation to be thrown out of the exhaust system or vaporized when the boat is first fired; this is common, but it should disappear as the engine warms up. – Todd Kaho
