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WATERSKI MagazineSkiers turned audiophiles can eliminate installation costs by doing much of the work themselves. Here are a few key tips from Steve Waddell, marketing manager of the Recoton 12-volt division (Recoton is Jensen's parent company), and Rob Groner, a Recoton 12-volt tech specialist who installed the system on Tim Coyle's Volante.
When installing the head unit, it's a good idea to cut holes in the back of the enclosure or even remove the back of the enclosure entirely. This will give any moisture that finds its way to the unit an opportunity to evaporate before it can damage the unit.
Use true marine components whenever possible. The higher-quality closed-cell foam used in marine gaskets will stand up to corrosive agents better than rubber or vinyl.
Use gold or gold-plated connections whenever possible. This corrosion deterrent is practically an industry standard. In addition, use oxygen-free copper for all cabling.
When cutting through upholstery to install speakers, carefully cut through the vinyl first, then the foam until you reach the fiberglass. That way you will only be cutting one material at a time.
Foam baffles, when installed behind a rear speaker, not only protect the rear of the speaker from skis and other equipment, but also help to create a resonance chamber for better sound.
To determine your system's overall power needs, look at the RMS rating of each component. Your system's total RMS number defines the amount of power needed to effectively drive those components.
Speaker placement is often predetermined by the boat's manufacturer. In cases of custom speaker placement, which may vary widely, an important rule of thumb is to place all components as high up in the boat as possible. Preventing water damage is paramount to the system's continued integrity. – S.N.
