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Clear Lake, California

On the atlas there are three Clear Lakes in the state of California. But if Clear Lake comes up in conversation with no reference to geography, it's a given that the subject is the piece of natural water two hours north of San Francisco, where water skiing became a West Coast fixation half a century ago.

Back in the late '40s and early '50s Clear Lake was the heart of California skiing. If you wanted to try negotiating a homemade slalom course or jump off a ramp, you came to Clear Lake. It was here that slalom ski and longboard pioneer Bob Maher got his innovative blood pumping. The lake, with more than 100 miles of shoreline, has narrow outlets to the south for developing slalom expertise. Up to the north there's a huge oval where ski racers have been burning the bumpy water since the sport's inception.

“A lot of times we'd ski up to Lakeport for a soda,” Maher remembers. “That's about 25 miles, which was a long way to ski in those days.”

Today's Clear Lake echoes the past. Physically, it's ageless because this is one of the few lakes in California that isn't dammed, making it the state's largest natural freshwater lake. The water that stretches outside the main body is normally mirror-flat. Rolling hills and dormant volcanoes keep wind and fog safely above and beyond the basin-dwelling lake. Nature instead makes its mark from beneath, where vents in the lakebed give rise to bubbling water at “Soda Bay,” near the spot where Maher and friends tipped their carbonated thirst-busters. Racers continue to train here because the 11 public ramps are free, time is limitless and the water is open.

“We're insulated and isolated, so it's a perfect proving ground for skiers,” says local skier Jim Goetz. They said the same thing 50 years ago, and figure to be saying it 50 years from now.



Other attractions:

* Boat and ski races throughout the summer on the north end of the lake.

* Library Park is host to concerts and barbecues every weekend during the summer.

Where to unpack:

* Konocti Harbor Resort in Kelseyville (707-279-4281) is more than a place to sleep. Here you'll find tennis courts, miniature golf and water-sports rentals; $49-$89 per night.

* Skylark Shores Hotel (707-263-6151) in Lakeport has docking facilities on the lake; $50-$93 per night.

Where to eat:

* Head up to Clearlake (sic) Riviera on Mount Konocti for a steak and a great view of the lake.

* The Konocti Queen paddle boat takes nightly dinner cruises.

Something you have to see:

* Follow the crowds inching toward the International Worm Races in Clearlake July 5. We're not sure where the qualifying rounds are held.

In case you forgot:

* On the Waterfront (707-263-6789) carries HO and Hyperlite equipment.

Boat service:

* Hillside Honda on Main Street in Lakeport services inboards (707-263-9000).

How to get here:

* From San Francisco, take 101 north to 20 east, then take 29 east to Lakeport.

* From Interstate 5 take highway 20 west to the lake.

For more information:

* Lake County Visitors Center (800-525-3743).

* Clearlake Chamber of Commerce (707-994-3600).

Categories: Site to Ski