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WATERSKI MagazineBorder authorities have little to worry about along the section of the Rio Grande just west of Del Rio, Texas. Only an ill-informed swimmer would scout the artery-narrow river and choose to cross where it spills out and forms an enormous puddle fringed with tricky branches. Maybe that's why the area around Lake Amistad is known as “the best of the border.”
Crossings on Amistad (the Spanish word for “friendship”) are most favorable from the helm of a stern-drive or from the top of a wide-body slalom. The lake takes up a 74-mile stretch of the Rio Grande and touches more than 850 miles of shoreline. There are four main arms, each decorated with wedges and coves for hideaway ski sets.
“When I moved here from Houston I was surprised to see how calm and blue the water is,” says recreational skier Christine Cowles. “It even changes color depending on the weather. After a cold front it's aqua. On cold days it turns kind of blue-gray.”
Air temperatures hit the upper 70s in March. Visitors can get the season started at the Diablo East launch ramp, 5 miles west of the Amistad Dam. Here the water is wide and deep, and the coves can be found in clusters. Up in the main channel is Castle Canyon, a calm section lined with high rock and little islands. Farther to the east is a favorite arm for skiers and boarders called Devils River. Not only is the skiing smooth on the spring-fed green water, but it also runs through an archaeological playground known as Indian Cliffs. You don't even have to leave the boat to get an eyeful of Indian art that's 4,000 years old.
Because the National Park Service operates Lake Amistad, development is scarce. It's a typical west Texas setting, with purple sage and cactus along the horizon. And under ski and under boat, in the middle of the lake runs something very significant, yet invisible. It's the U.S. / Mexico border.
Other attractions:
* Dock at Panther Cave along the Rio Grande and explore the Indian rock art and ar- chaeological findings.
* Scuba divers can check out Castle Canyon Ranch, which became submerged when the river was dammed.
Where to unpack:
* Lake Amistad Resort and Marina (210-774-4157) rents houseboats. Call for rates.
* There are three country-style bed-and-breakfasts a few minutes from the lake in Del Rio: The Inn on the Creek, La Mansion Del Rio and The 1890 House.
Where to eat:
* Cripple Creek Saloon in Del Rio is a log structure with a west Texas touch.
* Don Marcelino's has authentic Mexican fare.
Something you have to do:
* Nothing pleases the palate and ear like a platter of Texas pericos and a piano tune from Blondie Calderon at Memo's.
In case you forgot:
* Wal Mart (210-774-4593) in Del Rio carries general gear.
How to get here:
* From San Antonio, take highway 90 east to Del Rio. From El Paso, take I-10 east to highway 90 and head southeast to the lake.
For more information:
* Del Rio Chamber of Commerce (800-889-8149).
* Amistad National Park Service (210-775-7491).
